Ayvalik: Is it a Hidden Gem on Turkiye’s Aegean Coast?
Nestled on the Aegean coast of Turkiye, Ayvalik is a quaint town that often flies under the radar of many travelers. However, it is not absent of tourists and you are still in a touristy area but much less than Bodrum or Antalya. With its charming cobblestone streets, historic architecture, and breathtaking seascapes, Ayvalik offers a nice mix of culture, history, and natural beauty. Therefore, if you’re looking for an Aegean coast experience without the huge tourist crowds, Ayvalik might need to be on your list. For us, it was a great (and hopefully relaxing) stopping point between Bodrum and Istanbul.
Getting to Ayvalik
Ayvalik is easily accessible from major Turkish cities. If you’re coming from Istanbul, you can take a direct bus or drive, which takes about six hours. Alternatively, you can fly to Edremit Airport, just a 45-minute drive from Ayvalik. Izmir is a few hours south and has a larger international airport. We still had our rental car from Fethiye, so we arrived by car from the south.
Yep, We Screwed Up
You will need to be careful when driving in the Old Town area as Google Maps is not always accurate and one-way streets can cause issues (usually when going the wrong way). Maps may send you down an alley that is not where you need or want to be with a car. This happened to us and we ended up damaging the rental car. To make matters worse, the alley we went down was a block from the apartment we rented. We were parked in front of our apartment looking at the map when it showed that we had to go a block further and then into the alley from hell. If you are sent down an alley, get out of the car and walk to make sure before trying to drive down. You have been warned!!
As you can see in the pictures above, it is a small alley, and our little rental car could barely fit between the buildings. The person who lived in the house on the right side of the picture with the circle could barely come out of their house while we were stuck on the rock. The person living straight ahead from the rock in the same picture just hung out the window to tell us we were stupid (it was in Turkish, but I think that is what he said while shaking his head). They offered to help us, and we eventually made the left turn onto the larger alley. Unfortunately, that larger alley led us to another small alley. Thankfully there weren’t any rocks attacking us there. In case you are wondering, yes our car “was” red.
Exploring Ayvalik’s Old Town
The heart of Ayvalik is its Old Town, a maze of narrow streets lined with stone houses dating back to the Ottoman era. You can walk for hours and enjoy the charm of this historic area. Don’t miss a visit to the Taksiyarhis Church, an old Greek Orthodox church now serving as a museum. The frescoes and stunning architecture show the town’s rich cultural heritage. Check out my video from our visit to the church.
We enjoyed walking around the Old Town. You’ll find plenty of traditional Turkish tea houses, antique shops, fruit markets, and local artists selling handmade crafts. This is the perfect place to sit and enjoy a cup of tea while soaking in the atmosphere. I made a video of the Old Town area on our previous trip.
Also, don’t miss the marina area, sections are being redeveloped and more shops and restaurants should be open soon.
Beaches and Nature
Ayvalik is surrounded by stunning natural beauty, making it a paradise for beach lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. The nearby Cunda Island (also known as Alibey Island) is just a short drive or boat ride away. Here, you can relax on pristine beaches, explore ancient ruins, and hike through olive groves with panoramic views of the Aegean Sea.
One of the most famous beaches in the area is Sarımsaklı Beach, known for its soft white sand and crystal-clear waters. It’s a great spot for swimming, sunbathing, and water sports. On our previous visit, we stayed a block from Sarımsaklı Beach. It is more touristy and we found it tailored more to German visitors as many locals spoke German and very little English. Luckily, we could communicate in German for transactions at restaurants, etc.
Devil’s Table (aka Devil’s Feast) is about halfway between the Old Town and Sarımsaklı Beach. It is worth the drive up to the top for excellent views over the peninsula. There is a small restaurant with outdoor seating offering the stunning view below.
Culinary Delights
Ayvalik is renowned for its cuisine, particularly its seafood and olive oil. Olive groves surround the town, and you’ll find some of the best olive oil in the country here. Try the local specialty, “Ayvalik toast,” a delicious sandwich filled with Turkish sausage (sukuk), cheese, tomatoes, and pickles.
For a more refined dining experience, visit one of the many seaside restaurants in the area. Freshly caught fish, mezes (small dishes), and local wines highlight any meal in Ayvalik. Don’t forget to end your meal with a glass of rakı, the national drink of Turkey, while enjoying the sunset over the Aegean. Be aware, that not all of the restaurants along the water have English-speaking staff, you might have to point to order. This happened to us on our first visit, we just pointed at items in the display case and had no idea what it was or how much it would cost. Luckily it was both delicious and inexpensive.
Where to Stay in Ayvalik
Ayvalik offers a range of accommodations to suit every budget, from charming boutique hotels to affordable guesthouses. If you want to stay in the heart of the Old Town, remember that parking might be an issue due to the small streets. Cunda Island may offer a more budget-friendly option, consider staying in a pension or a guesthouse, where you can enjoy both the tranquility of the island and easy access to Ayvalik.
This was our second visit to Ayvalik, we were last there in 2021 during COVID restrictions. Our previous trip was only a short stopover for a couple of nights at a hotel near Sarımsaklı Beach. However, on this trip, we had booked an apartment in the Old Town area for a week. However, I had just injured my knee in Bodrum, and the apartment had steep stairs to get to the bedrooms and bathroom. Since we had booked the apartment before my injury, we had forgotten about the stairs. This created an issue for me with a knee brace and reduced mobility.
Might Need to Change Our Plans
Upon arrival, I contacted the host and advised that I had a recent injury that might make it difficult to climb the stairs safely. However, I did say that we would try to make it work. The host was very responsive and said he would work with us to make sure we were happy. After the second day, it was obvious that it would not work for my old banged-up knee.
I sent a request to the host asking to modify our reservation to end it 5 days early. The host agreed and refunded all unused days. We had expected to take a hit for at least some of the days, so getting a full refund was an unexpected bonus. Now we were in panic mode to find another place to stay. Unfortunately, there weren’t many options available around Ayvalik, so we booked an apartment in Çanakkale a few hours away. We packed our bags that night and headed out the next morning.
Conclusion
Ayvalik is a destination that offers something for just about everyone. Whether you are interested in history, nature, or simply relaxing by the sea, this charming town has it all. Its unspoiled beauty and authentic atmosphere make it a perfect spot for those looking to explore a lesser-known side of Turkiye. However, the old town area is better suited for families, couples, or older travelers. There are not a lot of party locations in that area (except for a few party boats). If you are looking for a party area, then Sarımsaklı Beach or Cunda Island may have more options. However, it is still a calm area compared to Bodrum or Antalya. Therefore, Ayvalik might be too laid back for some people and not be the gem on the Aegean coast for everyone. Due to our previous visit being during COVID restrictions, Sarımsaklı Beach may be more lively and different now.
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